Tokaji: The Best Wine That Too Many People Still Don't Drink

Though its fans are among the most passionate in the world of wine, sweet Tokaji still remains a mystery to the lion’s share of wine consumers. Which is unfortunate, as it is easily among the greatest wines of the world, the best of them up there with Grand Cru Burgundy, First Growth Bordeaux (and Sauternes), and the top appellations of Napa.

Much of this confusion likely has something to do with the production of Tokaji, which differs from other sweet wines in a number of significant ways. (Click here for a primer.) And some of it is the old issue with language: Consumers tend to shy away from wines they have a hard time pronouncing, and the combinations of that silent ‘j’ and the puttonyos grading system perplexes the uninitiated.

It shouldn’t. Because when all is said and done, all that really matters is the wine in the bottle. And truly great Tokaji is among the most profound expressions of what the grape can do anywhere in the world. Below are my tasting notes for two: Both the more familiar sweet style, as well as a dry Tokaji--both of them excellent.

Chateau Dereszla Dry Tokaji 2010

Very interesting nose of grapefruit and something approaching gooseberry--it reminds me, in a number of aromatic ways, of Sauvignon Blanc. But, of course, it’s different than that, with complimentary notes of wax and flowers and very subtle yellow plum complicating it in unexpected ways. Very unique, high-toned flavors of wax, nuts, apricots, and spice are zipped along with mouthwatering acidity, as well as grapefruit and lemon and a distinct minerality, plus a hint of key lime. Fascinating and very food friendly.

Chateau Dereszla Tokaji Aszu 5 Puttonyos 2006

An utterly addictive nose of sultanas, apricot, citrus peel and spice lead to spice-kissed flavors of rye bread with apricot preserves, dried and fresh pineapple, apple, honeyed lemon zest, and hay. This is wildly complex, with singing acidity to balance out the sweetness, and a lifespan that promises to extend a decade or more. Wonderful wine, and a steal given all that it delivers for the price.

New Releases from Gary Farrell

The first time I visited Sonoma, one of my first stops was Gary Farrell. The order of my visits hadn’t been planned out with any particular logic behind it; things just worked out that way.

In hindsight, hitting Farrell early on was as fortuitous as things could have gotten. Because this Russian River Valley standout is reliably, year after year, one of the top producers in the area. From remarkable single-vineyard bottlings to the more affordable appellation selections, these wines have been mainstays in my personal cellar for years--ever since that first visit. Below are my tasting notes on two excellent current-release bottlings.

Gary Farrell Chardonnay “Russian River Selection” 2009, Russian River Valley

Subtle hazelnut creme on the nose, with passing whiffs of smoke, toast, lemon oil, creamed pear, and semi-dried apricot. On the palate, flavors of marzipan and persimmon are vibrant and buttressed with gorgeously filigreed acidity. Long and kissed with gently browned butter and a hint of vanilla pod, this is a Chardonnay on the elegant end of the spectrum for the appellation. Hints of white tea and lime zest sweep in on the finish, and further complicate this wine that manages the difficult feat of being creamy yet not syrupy, and deeply flavored yet wholly fresh. Lovely. Drink now - 2022. 

Gary Farrell Pinot Noir “Russian River Selection” 2009, Russian River Valley

Cherry, cola, a hint of rubber and scorched earth, and brambly spice notes on the nose turn to brilliantly structured flavors of red and dark cherry, tart berries, mushroom, red licorice, and a touch of forest floor on the finish. This is built for the long haul, likely best from 2016 - 2028 / 30. The structure here is amazing, and the notes of brown spices should only continue to emerge and expand with time in the cellar.

Sake One: Standout Sake from...Oregon!

I haven’t written about sake here yet--not because I don’t love it but simply because I haven’t tasted anything recently that stood out.

That all changed when I received my samples of Sake One, the thoroughly unique, exceptionally exciting sake from...Oregon. It’s not exactly the first place that pops to mind when talk turns to great rice wine, but Sake One, and Sake Master Greg Lorenz, are changing that, and with gusto.

Honestly, there’s something special about this sake, and not just its origins and what that provenance stands for. It has something to do with both its balance of complexity and outright drinkability, as well as the doors it promises to open in this country. It possesses the all-too-rare combination of accessibility for the novice and interest for the connoisseur. And while the flavored sake in the portfolio--notably the crisp-flavored Asian pear and the sweeter plum versions--have the potential to spur on any number of interesting cocktails, it’s the more classic bottlings that really piqued my interest.

My tasting notes are below.

Sake One Organic Junmai Ginjo “Momokawa”

Aromas of creamy sesame and rice pudding combine with hints of dried pineapple and white chocolate, and lead to masculine flavors hinting at mango and sesame paste, creamed almond, and a sweet fruit note reminiscent of a pina colada. This is a flat-out delicious sake, wildly food-friendly and just as enjoyable on its own. 

Sake One Junmai Ginjo Genshu “G Joy”

Bigger, richer nose than the Momokawa, and the alcohol is more apparent, but not overwhelmingly so. Notes of marcona almond and marzipan, toast, sweet coconut, white licorice, hints of smoke, and sun-warmed hay swirl around the nose. Flavors of flowers, peach, apricot, lemon zest, and hazelnut - milk chocolate napoleon are at once giving and assertive. Powerful, concentrated, and rich, this could successfully accompany everything from veal piccata and lemon chicken to heartier dishes like barbecue. Excellent.